Oh the joy of mosaic crochet! So versatile! With a single design 'recipe' you can happily fall down the mosaic rabbit hole into as many project variations as you please! In this blog I'm going to talk you through how to adapt one of my most popular designs, New Kid On The Block, from this rather beautiful throw into a funky and useful tote bag.
I absolutely love this design, it's based on a teacup my Granny owned in the 1970s. She loved her cups of tea and the teacup had to be the right one. Very discerning, Granny Rosa was! This beautiful blue and off-white throw shows off the blocky pattern really well. Then it dawned on me that this pattern would look equally fun as a tote bag. Practical, sturdy and simple to make, this bag gets a lot of good comments when it goes with me to the supermarket. Maybe it's the bright orange happy vibes...
So, let's get making. To start, you'll need to get your hands on the New Kid On The Block Throw pattern (available in my Etsy Shop here and Ravelry Shop here). Next, follow the stages below. Remember you can use any yarn, any colours you like for your tote. This is a great stash-busting proj.
I used:
Scheepjes Colour Crafter
Yarn A: The Hague (1256) x 2 balls
Yarn B Zandvoort (1218) x 2 balls
Hook Size 3.5mm (or a hook to suit your yarn, you are aiming for a fairly tight weave to your crochet fabric so it is dense and strong)
Other Materials
You will need lining fabric if you wish to line your bag (I recommend you do, just to make it stronger). A cotton/calico fabric works well. You could use an old sheet, pillow case, or even an old item of clothing if you want to upcycle.
I used upholstery jute webbing for my handles (2 lengths of approx. 75cm, but you can make handle length to suit you). Again, to upcycle, you could use old fabric or leather belts as handles, or sew simple long strips of fabric into a 'tube' on the wrong side, then turn to the right side to cover the raw edges. Get creative!
Needle, thread and pins (a sewing machine is useful but not essential, you can hand-sew if you prefer. I machine sewed mine for strength)
Other Info
Panels are worked from the bottom up. Pattern works to a multiple of (x 12 chain) + 4 chain for your starting chain (e.g. ch40 or ch52 etc), then work the pattern from Foundation row 1. Your starting chain length will be approximately the width of your bag, so make your chain to a length to suit you.
How to make your bag
To make the front and back panels (make 2 identical panels):
With Yarn A, ch76 (or length to suit, using the multiple above).
Now follow the pattern from Foundation row 1, (you will have 75 dc at the end of row 1 for my version).
Foundation rows 2-6: Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), 1dc in each st to end, turn. [75 dc per row]. Change colour to Yarn B at end of Foundation row 6.
Now follow the Main Pattern from rows 1-22 once, then work from rows 3-22 a further 4 times.
Finish with 6 rows of dc sts in Yarn A to make the top edge of the bag. Fasten off, weave in ends. Note that these 2 panels are NOT edged like the throw.
Assembly
Measure the height and width of one of the crocheted panels before you start sewing. Cut out 2 identical pieces of lining fabric to the same width as the panel, but add 2cm to the height for the top seam. Put to one side.
Panels
Place the 2 crocheted panels together, with the wrong side facing out. Tack or pin along side, bottom and other side edges, then hand or machine sew around these 3 sides with a 1cm seam allowance. To add depth to the bag if required, make box corners: With wrong side still facing out, pinch each bottom corner to make a triangle, so the side seam sits directly on top of the bottom seam. With seams opened out to reduce bulk, sew a straight line across, 2cm in from the corner to make a triangle. Sew the loose corners to the bottom of the bag to hold in place. Turn to right side out.
Lining
Join the 2 pieces of lining fabric togther in the same way as the crocheted panels, including the box corners if necessary. Note that a wider seam (e.g 1.5cm) might be necessary as the lining will be slightly narrower to fit inside the bag. Check to get this right before sewing. Once sewn, and with wrong side still facing out, fold down and iron a 2cm hem around the top edge onto the wrong side. Insert the lining into the bag with right side showing inside. The lining should sit just under the top edge so it is not visible on the outside. Pin or tack into place, then neatly sew it into place, approx. 0.5cm under the top edge.
Handles
If you are using jute webbing like me, fold each end under by approx. 2cm so no raw edges are visible. Pin each handle into position on the outside of the bag, at a length to suit you. My handles measure 3cm down from the top edge of the bag, but of course, adjust to suit you. Sew handles securely in place to finish. If you don't want the handles visible on the front and back of the bag, sew them to the inside instead.
And there you have it, one absolutely fabulous original tote bag! Don't forget, now you know how to adapt this pattern, you could use it to make lots of other things, such as cushion covers, rugs, all sorts of geometric fun...
Happy Mosaic Crocheting!
Esme x
