Snaggletooth MAL Week 1

 Hi there! Well this is exciting! It's time to start the MAL!! Welcome to Week 1 of the Snaggletooth Make Along, which I am delighted to be running with the wonderful Scheepjes team.

After we made the Big Announcement about this super Scheepjes-Snaggletooth MAL two weeks ago, it's all gone a bit Snaggletooth crazy! Many of you are already enjoying the pattern, sharing colour choices, chatting about the important things like whether to go tassels or pompoms on the edge (or neither!!!) so I'd like to say thank you all so much for the Snaggletooth love!

If you'd like to participate, you will find lots of help, support and chat over at the Scheepjes Facebook community here:

OFFICIAL SCHEEPJES INTERNATIONAL GROUP

and

OFFICIAL SCHEEPJES NEDERLANDSE GROEP

where we will be sharing our work, and chatting about all things Snaggletooth. 

The Snaggletooth pattern is available as a paid pattern on Ravelry HERE but I am delighted to offer it to you as a free gift from me to you with the code ScheepjesMAL for the duration of the MAL (from today 22 September to 20 October) when you check out on Ravelry. It is also available as a paid pattern only (not free) in my Etsy shop HERE. I'd just like to say a really big thank you to everyone who has already purchased the pattern, your support means the world to me.

The pattern not only gives you all the information you need to make the gorgeous Scheepjes Colour Crafter version above in pink, white and yellow, but also an extra bonus version using Scheepjes Chunky Monkey in dark blue, white and aqua to demonstrate how super-easy it is to adapt this pattern and make it your own. 

I love this Chunky Monkey version so much, it's just gorgeous to snuggle under, and I see lots of you have gone for the Chunky Monkey version over on the Scheepjes' Facebook pages. Do join in and show off your colour combinations whenever you like! It's really lovely to see what you're all up to!

If you'd like to experiment with some colour combinations before you start, there's a useful downloadable colouring sheet HERE

...And just so no one misses any Snaggletooth news, here's the itinerary:

PREVIOUS POSTS

8 Sept Big Announcement 

UPCOMING POSTS

Week 2 (29 Sept) Edging Top Tips

Week 3 (6 Oct) Pompoms and Tassels

Week 4 (13 Oct) Wrapping up the MAL and celebrating your makes!

SO, HERE WE GO! GETTING STARTED: HOW TO DO 2-ROW MOSAIC CROCHET (also known as INSET crochet)

There are several types of 'mosaic crochet' out there. You may have seen different versions, one in particular which you change colour every row. Personally, I don't get on well with that version as I am too impatient to sew in all the ends! The version I love is INSET crochet, or the 2-row technique, as you carry the yarn up the side of the work without fastening it off. If you're new to this 2-row style mosaic crochet, or need a refresher, I’m going to talk you through how to make a small swatch, with some photos to get you started. OK I'm not a professional photographer but I hope my rustic step-by-step pictures help!

TOP TIPS

Snaggletooth pattern works to a multiple of (x 14 ch) + 6 ch for the starting chain, e.g. ch34 or ch48 or ch62 etc. This ‘formula’ will work whether you are going for a big or small Snaggletooth, or something in between! Once you have calculated your starting chain multiple and made your chain, always start the pattern from Main Pattern Row 1, working 1dc in the second chain from the hook and in each ch to the end. You will therefore have one fewer dc than chains made at the end of Row 1. E.g. if you ch34, you will have 33 dc at the end of Row 1. If you ch48, you will end up with 47 dc, and so on.

Make two rows in Yarn A, then two rows in Yarn B, and so on, switching colour at the end of the second row of the colour every time (this is always on the WS of the work). Leave the yarn not in use hanging at the side of the work, ready to carry up the side of the work and switch two rows later. Do NOT fasten off the yarns unless instructed to do so!

Work into the full stitch as you normally would; some mosaic crochet techniques ask you to work in back loops/front loops only, but not this version.

When you are making chains to skip stitches, you always make the chain a bit longer so that the fabric doesn't get pulled tight. To skip 1 stitch, ch2. To skip 2 stitches, ch3. To skip 3 stitches, ch4. And so on.

Turn your work after every row.

SPECIAL STITCHES

There are also two special stitches which are essential for this style of mosaic crochet:

cc (change colour): to change colour, work the last dc of the row in the old colour up to the last 2 loops on the hook, then yarn over hook with the new colour and draw the new colour through the loops on the hook to finish the stitch.

mtr (mosaic treble crochet): This is just a normal tr, but you work it in the skipped st of the same colour 3 rows below, working it in front of the intervening 2 rows of chs in the other colour. The chs will be visible and loose on the back of the work. Alternatively, you can work your mtr stitches around the chains so the chains are 'trapped' in the stitch and are therefore not visible on the back. It's personal choice. I prefer the chains visible as it gives a textured appearance on the front which I love. Full details are in the pattern. All mtr are worked on the RS of the work.

LET'S MAKE A SWATCH!

Yarn: Scheepjes Chunky Monkey (you can use any Scheepjes yarn and hook size of your choice, so long as the colours are contrasting to show the stitches clearly)

For my swatch, I'm using:

Yarn A: 1011 Slate

Yarn B: 2017 Stone

Yarn C: 1422 Aqua

and a 6.5mm crochet hook

With Yarn A, ch34 (which is (2 x 14) + 6). ⬇

Row 1 (RS) 1dc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch to the end. I prefer to work these dc stitches into the single loop on the BACK of each chain to make a neat bottom edge (it's a bit fiddly but worth taking the time- more on that in Week 2 next time), turn. [33 sts] ⬇

Row 2 (WS) Ch1 (every row from now on starts with ch1, but it never counts as a st), 1dc in each st to the last st, work the last st up to the last 2 lps on the hook ⬇

 

Cc to Yarn B by pulling Yarn B through to finish the stitch, turn. [33 sts] ⬇

 

Now leave Yarn A hanging at the side of your work, and work with Yarn B for the next 2 rows:

Row 3 (RS) Ch1, 1dc, *ch4, skip 3 sts, 1dc, ch3, skip 2 sts, 1dc; rep from * to the last 4 sts, ch4, skip 3 sts, 1dc, turn. ⬇

Now work Row 4, making a dc into every dc from Row 3, and making the same chain spaces to sit on top of the chain spaces from Row 3. (With 2-row mosaic crochet, the second row of a colour is ALWAYS a copy of the first row of that colour. The only difference is if you make an mtr in the first row, you make a dc into it on the second row of the same colour. More on that later.)

Row 4 (WS) Ch1, 1dc, *ch4, skip ch-4 sp, 1dc, ch3, skip ch-3 sp, 1dc; rep from * to last 4 sts, ch4, skip ch-4 sp, then work the final dc of the row up to the final 2 loops in the last st... ⬇

...now cc to Yarn A to finish the stitch, carrying the yarn up the side of the work so it makes a small loop up the side of the work. ⬇

You are now going to work the next two rows with Yarn A, leaving Yarn B hanging at the side. Turn your work.

Row 5 is the first row we make the 'mtr' or mosaic treble stitch. This is simply a normal tr, you ALWAYS make 1 mtr into EVERY skipped stitch made into every stitch we skipped in Row 2. The mtr will be made in front of the 2 rows of chains in the other colour, so that the stitch sits on top of the chains, and the chains are visible on the back of the work. See my notes in the full pattern if you wish to hide the chains.

Here's how the first mtr looks, after the ch1 and 1dc in the first st: You can see it's just a tr, made into the first skipped st in the same colour yarn, made in front of the 2 rows of chain. You can also see the next 2 skipped stitches right next to it, where we will make the next 2 mtr.

And here's Row 5 in full:

Row 5 (RS) Ch1, 1dc, *3mtr, ch2, skip 1 st, 2mtr, 1dc; rep from * to last 4 sts, 3mtr, 1dc, turn. ⬇

Now, as I mentioned before, the second row of the colour is a 'copy' of the first row, the ONLY difference being if you have made an mtr in the first row, you make a dc into it on the second row to keep the row nice and straight. Be careful to work into every mtr as sometimes they can be hidden:

Row 6 (WS) Ch1, 7dc (these 7dc are worked into the final 1dc, 3mtr, 1dc, 2mtr of Row 5 as you work back along = 7 sts in total), ch2, skip ch-2 sp, *6dc, ch2, skip ch-2 sp; rep from * to last 4 sts, 4dc, (cc to Yarn B in the final of these 4 dc as before), turn. ⬇

Now we are going to continue in this manner, using exactly the same technique of changing colour every 2 rows, making dc and chs, and working mtr into every skipped stitch of the same colour in front of the two rows of ch in the other colour.

Row 7 (RS) Ch1, (1dc, ch2, skip 1 st) twice, *1mtr, 5dc, ch2, skip 1 st; rep from * to last st, 1dc, turn. ⬇

Row 8 (WS) Ch1, 1dc, ch2, skip ch-2 sp, *6dc, ch2, skip ch-2 sp; rep from * to last 3 sts, 1dc, ch2, skip ch-2 sp, 1dc, cc back to Yarn A (in this final dc in the same way as before, carrying the yan up the side of the work), turn. ⬇

Row 9 (RS) Ch1, (1dc, 1mtr) twice, *ch5, skip 4 sts, 2dc, 1mtr; rep from * to last st, 1dc, turn. ⬇

Row 10 (WS) Ch1, 4dc, *ch5, skip ch-5 sp, 3dc; rep from * to last st, 1dc, cc to Yarn B (in this last dc), turn. ⬇

Row 11 (RS) Ch1, 1dc, *ch2, skip 1 st, 2dc, 4mtr; rep from * to last 4 sts, (ch2, skip 1 st, 1dc) twice, turn. ⬇

Row 12 (WS) Ch1, (1dc, ch2, skip ch-2 sp) twice, *6dc, ch2, skip ch-2 sp; rep from * to last st, 1dc, cc to Yarn A, turn. ⬇

Row 13 (RS) Ch1, 1dc, *1mtr, 5dc, ch2, skip 1 st; rep from * to last 4 sts, (1mtr, 1dc) twice, turn. ⬇

Row 14 (WS) Ch1, 4dc, *ch2, skip ch-2 sp, 6dc; rep from * to last st, 1dc, cc to Yarn B, turn. ⬇

Row 15 (RS) Ch1, 1dc, *ch4, skip 3 sts, 1dc, ch3, skip 2 sts, 1mtr; rep from * to last 4 sts, ch4, skip 3 sts, 1dc, turn. ⬇

Row 16 (WS) Ch1, 1dc, *ch4, skip ch-4 sp, 1dc, ch3, skip ch-3 sp, 1dc; rep from * to last 4 sts, ch4, skip ch-4 sp, 1dc, cc to Yarn A, turn. ⬇

After 16 rows, your swatch will look like this ⬇

If you want to make the swatch bigger, repeat Rows 5 to 16 until it reaches the size you like. Here, I have repeated Rows 5-16 once more. ⬇

Next, we need to add the final 2 rows to the top edge so that it's neat and tidy, ready to add the edgings. These final 2 rows are worked in Yarn A, and are in the main pattern as Rows 197-198. For the first 'finishing row', you simply ch1, then make a dc in every dc or mtr st from the previous row, and an mtr into every ch-sp, so there are NO ch-sps in this row. For the second 'finishing row', ch1, 1dc in each st to the end. Once you've completed this, fasten off both yarns and weave in all ends. ⬇

And there you have it, a Snaggletooth Swatch. Now you have got the basic technique, you can use it to make a Snaggletooth of ANY SIZE!

The pattern also comes with a clear chart and full instructions on how to read it. I always LOVE using the charts rather than the row-by-row written instructions for mosaic crochet as it's far easier to see where you are. But again, personal choice!

See you next week when we will add some rather lovely aqua blue edging to the top and bottom edges, and a simple edging to neaten up the 2 raw sides. Until then, happy mosaic crocheting and happy Snaggletoothing to you all!

Esme x

 

A BIG Announcement!

Well hello there everyone! I’m Esme, a crochet designer from the beautiful East of England, and I’m thrilled to be working with Scheepjes to bring you the SNAGGLETOOTH MAKE-ALONG, or MAL for short! This MAL kicks off on September 22 and runs for 4 weeks. 

This beautiful, geometric Snaggletooth throw is made using the 2-row mosaic crochet technique, and even if you have never tried it before or need to brush up on your skills, don't worry! I'll be giving you lots of step-by-step help, top tips and pictures to get you Snaggletoothing in no time!

If you want to get involved, the Scheepjes Snaggletooth MAL will be taking place on these facebook pages:

OFFICIAL SCHEEPJES INTERNATIONAL GROUP

And 

OFFICIAL SCHEEPJES NEDERLANDSE GROEP

You’ll find plenty of help and support from the amazing Scheepjes team and from myself there, so I look forward to seeing you all and having a look at all your amazing projects! I am delighted to tell you the pattern will be available for FREE on Ravelry, as my gift to you from the start of the MAL on 22 September! But if you would like to get ahead and start early, the Snaggletooth pattern is available to purchase in both ENGLISH and DUTCH on Ravelry HERE and on Etsy HERE right now. But of course if you prefer, just wait until 22 September when you can receive the pattern for free using the code ScheepjesMAL on Ravelry! This code will be available for the duration of the MAL from 22 September to 20 October.

In addition, pop in here to my blog every week from 22 September to 13 October 2021 to find lots of information, explanation and inspiration to help you on your Snaggletooth journey! In Week 1, we’ll be looking at the technique of 2-row mosaic crochet with a handy step-by-step photo tutorial. Week 2 will be all about the edging techniques. Tassels and pompoms will be on our minds in Week 3, and Week 4 will wrap everything up with looking at different colourways, yarn weights, and how easy it is to adjust the pattern to make Snaggletooth your own!

DESIGN INSPIRATION

This is a design which encompasses everything I love about crochet: It’s bold, it’s fun, it’s geometric and cool, and most of all, it’s far easier to make than it looks! My kind of crochet! 

My inspiration for Snaggletooth is of course a traditional houndstooth pattern. I found this gorgeous yellow and black coat in a charity shop and HAD to try and make a crochet houndstooth design. Much chart work and frustration followed, until I got it! I’m so pleased with its simplicity and style.

And the name comes from my cat Hank Deluxe as he pulls some really excellent snaggletooth faces. Like many cats, he often has a tooth hanging out which makes him look fierce and cute at the same time.

WHAT DO YOU NEED?

To make your very own version of this lovely throw with its zingy pink pattern and fun yellow edging, you will need the following yarn:

Scheepjes Colour Crafter (100% Premium Acrylic (Anti Pilling); 100g/300m):

Yarn A: 2017 Verviers x 3 balls for the background

Yarn B: 1257 Hilversum x 3 balls for the pink zing!

Yarn C: 1712 Nijmegen x 1 ball for the edging and pompoms

Plus a 5.5mm crochet hook, and a 65mm pompom maker or some cardboard to make pompoms, should you wish! (Pompoms not obligatory... I just happen to be obsessed with them.)

BONUS PATTERN

In addition to the Colour Crafter version, I thought it would be fun to show you how great this design looks using different yarn weights and hook sizes. So, at the end of the pattern, you will find all the information you need to make a version in Scheepjes Chunky Monkey yarn, which is just SO SQUISHY and COSY! I totally love this version! This heavy hitter (it weighs in at 1.8kg!) is made from the following:

Scheepjes Chunky Monkey (100% Premium Acrylic (Anti Pilling); 100g/116m):

Yarn A: 1011 Slate x 9 balls

Yarn B: 2017 Stone x 8 balls

Yarn C: 1422 Aqua x 3 balls

on a 6.5mm crochet hook.

As the pattern is completely adjustable to a starting chain multiple of x 14 + 6, I reduced the starting chain to ch118, so I had 117 dc at the end of Row 1.

FUN WITH COLOUR

But of COURSE I want you to have fun, explore the colours, go your own way with your interpretation of this pattern, because this is a project all about you making it your own. To help you get the colour ideas flowing, I have made a colouring chart to help you try out some combinations. You’ll need 2 colours for the main throw, then an extra colour (combined with one of the main colours if you like) for the edging.

You can download the handy colouring chart HERE

Here are some of my own charts which I coloured in to play along!

In addition, I really want to share some fantastic versions made by the crochet community to give you even more ideas! Check out these beauties from some of my friends and testers on the socials:

Anneli from @kottaia100 has used some beautiful soft shades of Stone Washed

This vibrant orange version in Colour Crafter is by Claire @crochetfromtheoast

Fabulous: it looks so cool when you invert the pink and white! This beauty is by Benita from @senoritabenita

This amazing purple and black Snaggletooth is being beautifully modelled by its maker, the lovely Toyah from @penelopeandthesquish, made in Colour Crafter

...and last but not least this lovely coral and teal version in Softfun by Erin from @USC2000

Thanks so much to everyone for letting me share their fabulous pictures with you all!

So that's it for now, I hope I have whetted your Snaggletooth appetites and I look forward to seeing you here on September 22 for Week 1 of the MAL, where we start making a swatch using this fantastic 2-row mosaic crochet technique. See you then!

Esme x

How to crochet a 2-tone granny square

Well hello there! Long time no ramble. So, as many of you wanted this pattern for my easy 2-tone diagonal granny square, I thought I'd give you the pattern here. To make the big crazy technicoloured blanket for my niece, I used a 5mm hook and an assortment of random DK yarn in clashy colours. Once I'd made as many squares as I needed, I simply slip stitched them together to join, before adding a border. Hank Deluxe approves... I think??

Here is the basic pattern, which uses UK crochet terms. Once you get to Round 5, you will be on a roll, so it's easy to add further rounds to make your squares bigger using exactly the same method. I think I made these squares using 8 rounds.

Hints and tips

1. Turn work over at end of each Round, where indicated, working next Round on opposite side.

2. Each square is made of 2 colours, both yarns stay connected throughout. Leave the yarn not in use dangling down, ready to pick up again later. Fasten off both yarns when square is complete.

3. Blocking each square before joining makes for a beautiful crisp finish. Join squares together by placing 2 squares with RS tog and slip stitch into outside stitches on edge only.

Pattern Instructions

With Yarn A, ch4, join with ss into first ch to form a ring. 

Round 1 (RS):  Ch3 (counts as first tr throughout), 2tr into ring, ch2, 3tr into ring, ch1. Change to Yarn B by dropping Yarn A  to rear of work, then draw through loop of Yarn B. Do not fasten off Yarn A. With Yarn B, ch1, (3tr into ring, ch2) twice. Join with ss into top of ch-3 in Yarn A from start of round. Gently tie loose end of Yarn B onto Yarn A at your colour change-over point to secure. [3 tr per side made]. Turn work over to work next round on reverse side.

Round 2  (WS):  With Yarn B, ss into ch-2 sp just made, ch3, 1tr into same ch-sp, 1tr in each tr from previous round to next ch-2 sp, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-2 sp, 1tr in each tr from previous round to next ch-2 sp, (2tr, ch1) in ch-2 sp where colours join from previous round. Change to Yarn A by dropping Yarn B to rear of work, pick up Yarn A and pull through loop of Yarn A making a single strand to same height as a tr st (this strand does not count as a st throughout, it should be ignored!), ch1, 2tr in same ch-2 sp. Gently pull Yarn B to secure. 1tr in each tr to next ch-2 sp, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-2 sp, 1tr in each tr to next ch-2 sp, making final tr into top of ch-3 from start of previous round, in same place as the Yarn B join can be seen. (2tr, ch2) in ch-2 sp. Join with ss into top of ch-3 in Yarn B from start of round. [7 tr per side]. Turn work over.

Round 3 (RS): With Yarn A, ss into ch-2 sp just made, ch3, 1tr into same ch-sp, 1tr in each tr to next ch-2 sp, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-2 sp, 1tr in each tr to next ch-2 sp, (2tr, ch1) in ch-2 sp where colours join from previous round. Change to Yarn B (using colour-change method as described in Round 2). Ch1, 2tr in same ch-2 sp. Gently pull Yarn A to secure. 1tr in each tr to next ch-2 sp, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-2 sp, 1tr in each tr to next ch-2 sp, making final tr into top of ch-3 from start of previous round, in same place as Yarn A join can be seen. (2tr, ch2) into ch-2 sp. Join with ss into top of ch-3 in Yarn A from start of round. [11 tr per side]. Turn work over.

Round 4:  Rep Round 2. [15 tr per side]

Round 5:  Rep Round 3. [19 tr per side]. Fasten off Yarn A and Yarn B, weave in all ends securely.

Block squares to shape. Arrange squares as you wish, then join together (see Hints and tips) before adding the Edging.

Edging

Use 4.5mm hook if a slightly tighter edging is preferred.

Round 1:  Join yarn into any st on edge, 1dc into each st around, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in each of the four corners. Join with ss into first dc.

Round 2: Ch1, rep Round 1.

Fasten off yarn, weave in all ends.

This technique is so versatile! You can go with a random pattern, or a very stylish geometric pattern like this:

This version is called Wild Goose Chase and I made it using an aran yarn and 6mm hook. It first appeared in Crochet Now magazine, issue 16.

OK, that's it for now, hope you enjoy this pattern!

Esme x

New Kid On The Block: A funky throw and a fab tote bag!

Oh the joy of mosaic crochet! So versatile! With a single design 'recipe' you can happily fall down the mosaic rabbit hole into as many project variations as you please! In this blog I'm going to talk you through how to adapt one of my most popular designs, New Kid On The Block, from this rather beautiful throw into a funky and useful tote bag.

I absolutely love this design, it's based on a teacup my Granny owned in the 1970s. She loved her cups of tea and the teacup had to be the right one. Very discerning, Granny Rosa was! This beautiful blue and off-white throw shows off the blocky pattern really well. Then it dawned on me that this pattern would look equally fun as a tote bag. Practical, sturdy and simple to make, this bag gets a lot of good comments when it goes with me to the supermarket. Maybe it's the bright orange happy vibes... 

So, let's get making. To start, you'll need to get your hands on the New Kid On The Block Throw pattern (available in my Etsy Shop here and Ravelry Shop here). Next, follow the stages below. Remember you can use any yarn, any colours you like for your tote. This is a great stash-busting proj. 

I used:

Scheepjes Colour Crafter

Yarn A: The Hague (1256) x 2 balls

Yarn B Zandvoort (1218) x 2 balls

Hook Size 3.5mm (or a hook to suit your yarn, you are aiming for a fairly tight weave to your crochet fabric so it is dense and strong)

Other Materials

You will need lining fabric if you wish to line your bag (I recommend you do, just to make it stronger). A cotton/calico fabric works well. You could use an old sheet, pillow case, or even an old item of clothing if you want to upcycle.

I used upholstery jute webbing for my handles (2 lengths of approx. 75cm, but you can make handle length to suit you). Again, to upcycle, you could use old fabric or leather belts as handles, or sew simple long strips of fabric into a 'tube' on the wrong side, then turn to the right side to cover the raw edges. Get creative!

Needle, thread and pins (a sewing machine is useful but not essential, you can hand-sew if you prefer. I machine sewed mine for strength) 

Other Info

Panels are worked from the bottom up. Pattern works to a multiple of (x 12 chain) + 4 chain for your starting chain (e.g. ch40 or ch52 etc), then work the pattern from Foundation row 1. Your starting chain length will be approximately the width of your bag, so make your chain to a length to suit you.

How to make your bag

To make the front and back panels (make 2 identical panels):

With Yarn A, ch76 (or length to suit, using the multiple above).

Now follow the pattern from Foundation row 1, (you will have 75 dc at the end of row 1 for my version). 

Foundation rows 2-6: Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), 1dc in each st to end, turn. [75 dc per row]. Change colour to Yarn B at end of Foundation row 6.

Now follow the Main Pattern from rows 1-22 once, then work from rows 3-22 a further 4 times. 

Finish with 6 rows of dc sts in Yarn A to make the top edge of the bag. Fasten off, weave in ends. Note that these 2 panels are NOT edged like the throw.

Assembly

Measure the height and width of one of the crocheted panels before you start sewing. Cut out 2 identical pieces of lining fabric to the same width as the panel, but add 2cm to the height for the top seam. Put to one side.

Panels

Place the 2 crocheted panels together, with the wrong side facing out. Tack or pin along side, bottom and other side edges, then hand or machine sew around these 3 sides with a 1cm seam allowance. To add depth to the bag if required, make box corners: With wrong side still facing out, pinch each bottom corner to make a triangle, so the side seam sits directly on top of the bottom seam. With seams opened out to reduce bulk, sew a straight line across, 2cm in from the corner to make a triangle. Sew the loose corners to the bottom of the bag to hold in place. Turn to right side out.

Lining

Join the 2 pieces of lining fabric togther in the same way as the crocheted panels, including the box corners if necessary. Note that a wider seam (e.g 1.5cm) might be necessary as the lining will be slightly narrower to fit inside the bag. Check to get this right before sewing. Once sewn, and with wrong side still facing out, fold down and iron a 2cm hem around the top edge onto the wrong side. Insert the lining into the bag with right side showing inside. The lining should sit just under the top edge so it is not visible on the outside. Pin or tack into place, then neatly sew it into place, approx. 0.5cm under the top edge.

Handles

If you are using jute webbing like me, fold each end under by approx. 2cm so no raw edges are visible. Pin each handle into position on the outside of the bag, at a length to suit you. My handles measure 3cm down from the top edge of the bag, but of course, adjust to suit you. Sew handles securely in place to finish. If you don't want the handles visible on the front and back of the bag, sew them to the inside instead.

And there you have it, one absolutely fabulous original tote bag! Don't forget, now you know how to adapt this pattern, you could use it to make lots of other things, such as cushion covers, rugs, all sorts of geometric fun...

Happy Mosaic Crocheting!

Esme x

 

A Gift for You! Free pattern and colouring project!

Hi there everyone! Such exciting news today, about an amazing designer-maker-illustrator called Florencia. You have to check her out! She goes by the name Ullvuna, and she is wonderful! Once I'd seen her work (I'm talking stunning tapestry crochet and she's also rather well-known in the pin loom world for her work, including a book called 100 Pin Loom Squares), I had to get involved. Here's her blog:

Ullvuna Blog

Anyway, she wanted to offer a free crochet pattern and colouring project for you all, I mean what an incredible gesture. What with the state of the world right now, I'm all for sharing creativity so I said yes. Immediately! Florencia lives thousands of miles away in Chile, so this is an international project!!

So, we set about it. I offered my Starflower pattern, which is a beautiful hexagon motif with a big flower in the middle, as the name suggests. Florencia made the pattern into a colouring diagram, and also made her own hexagon- I love this picture of her!

...And here are the hexies I made... you can make a few and join them to make a little baby blanket or a throw for cold winter evenings...

... AND here's what the colouring page looks like!

So, if you'd like all this lovely creative joy for free, just click HERE for the downloadable pdf. 

With love from me in the UK and the lovely Florencia many many miles away. Reaching out across the world to collaborate! That's creativity at its finest I think. I hope one day Florencia and I might meet. I need to give that woman a hug... when hugs are back on the menu...

Esme xxxx